Mission: Europe
- Jeff Cloeter
- Jun 23, 2010
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Jetlag and Good Germans
I’m sitting in the living room of Robert and Bethany’s 3rd story Munich apartment. It’s 3:00AM. I can’t sleep. Why? Because my body thinks it’s 8:00PM. I have slept 8 of the last 48 hours thanks to 10 hours of flying and 7 time zone changes. But Bobbi and I have arrived in Germany, and we’re excited.
While here, I have two goals: to support and encourage the Millars in their mission of reaching the 80,000 university students in Munich. Second, I believe that time here will inform ministry in our U.S. context. Germany has a state church, yet less than 1% of Germans consider themselves evangelical Christians. Working with Young Life, the Millars are pioneering mission work in a post-church culture. Germany (and Europe) have played an essential role in the history of the Christian church. But in the 21st century the Christian faith is just that – history. Why is this? Are we seeing hints of this in the U.S.?
I went for a long walk with Robert this afternoon along the Isar River which knifes through the city. Two of my best friends are former Irish thugs who now serve Jesus in professional ministry. Robert is one of them. We come from very different backgrounds. I’m an introvert. He’s an extreme extrovert. I like basketball. He juggles with fire. I speak American. He speaks Irish. Yet God has introduced us, and we have a kinship.
“Describe the typical German,” I tell Robert. Like a veteran sociologist, he quickly responds, “They are humanists. Extremely ethical, moral, and socially conscious.” In relation to the Christian faith, Robert says, “Jesus is like Santa Claus. A nice, moral story you teach your children, but really not true.” Germans are indifferent, if not critical of a Christian witness. As a people still living with the guilt of WWII, they are highly sensitive to the limits of authority. The theme of their system of concentration camp museums is “Never Again.” Political, national, and religious absolutism left this country in ruins, so they are highly skeptical. Within this national history, they believe the answer is found in the power of the human spirit to do better.
There is no place in this city that I feel unsafe. It is a modern, clean, cosmopolitan city with incredibly low crime. The Millars took us bowling with their Young Life boss and his family. While at the bowling alley we ordered drinks, got shoes, and played a game – all before paying a dime. It is assumed that you will return your shoes and tell them what you ordered on the way out. I asked Bethany, “I bet they have a lot of people walking off without paying.” “No,” she said. “Germans wouldn’t think of not paying. They always follow the rules.”
This is the Millar’s ministry context. “Good Germans.” They are educated. Hard working. Moral. Socially conscious. Globally conscious. “Green.” Law abiding. And far from God. So here Robert and Bethany descend on Munich like Paul in Athens. With no strong presence of the Christian church, their goal is to reach the next generation of Germany’s best and brightest. There are 80,000 students at various universities in Munich. How does one even begin? Well, I’m beginning to hallucinate. I should go . . . . to bed . . .
Two Hours on a Train with an Irishman
We took a two hour train ride to Salzburg, Austria for a day trip. The average Bavarian train rider was likely amused by a talkative, curly haired Irishman in conversation with a very American tourist. I had my Nikon D40 camera over my shoulder. My passport holder was dangling around my neck (no fanny pack, please). And my wardrobe is clearly not European. All I needed was a T-shirt that said, “Gawk at me. I’m American.”
A two hour train ride to Arnold Schwarzenegger’s native country seemed to go by in seconds. Robert talked about the few Christian groups/churches who are doing evangelism in Munich. Some shove tracts in people’s faces at the train station. Some adhere to 12-step presentations of the gospel, going door to door. “Jeff, those Christians make it harder for me to do my job,” Robert said. Germans are offended by peddling presentations (as are many Americans). They see it as a manipulative sales pitch. For Germans, such a presentation of Jesus only engrains stereotypes into deeper ruts. Christians only become more marginalized in society and their message is seen as irrelevant babbling.
“So how do you reach people?” I inquire. Robert turns from looking out at the Bavarian Alps. “Relationship capital is the only capital we have. We must earn the right to be heard.” A relationship has to develop to a point where someone is vulnerable enough to tell their story to you. At that point they trust you enough to value your story. When you have built up enough relationship capital, someone will ask you “Who are you? What’s your story? Why are you different?” Then we tell them God’s story. This is harder and requires more patience than “drive-by evangelism.” But it is Biblical, effective, and long term. Robert and Bethany are developing a system of incarnational, relationship evangelism that works in a culture highly sensitive to Christian witness.
How many people do you know who are away from the Lord? How many of them have been vulnerable enough to tell you their uncensored story? Have you listened before talking? How many have asked “What’s different about you?” Then you’ve earned the right to be heard. Then your answer carries immense weight that will last a lifetime.
We arrive back in Munich at the end of the day. I’ve talked with Robert long enough to begin speaking with his Irish accent. Back in the apartment he shows me 28 index cards with names on them. Each card represents a person he and Bethany met last month. 28 relationships building capital. 28 people longing for someone to listen to their story. 28 individuals searching for a story with deeper meaning. 28 people that Robert and Bethany share their story with. They pray for twice as many cards next month.
Museums
Most European cathedrals are museums – the most elaborate in the world. At Notre Dame in Paris, 1,000 sweaty tourists are wandering this unbelievable piece of architecture while 40 worshipers are celebrating mass in the chancel. No reverence, just sightseeing. No worship, just flash photography. The Frauenkirche in Munich (the museum Pope Benedict calls “home”). Notre Dame and Saint Chapelle in Paris. St. Peter’s and the Sistine Chapel at the Vatican. Centuries (and millenia) old, these structures are some of the greatest architectural masterpieces in the universe. They are fine destinations for family trips and tour buses full of fanny packs. There are more flashes from tourist cameras in one hour than there are worshipers in one year.
German Country Music with a Bavarian Twang
We took the subway to a student organized music festival in the university area. There were thousands of college students toting large glass beer mugs. Although I’m not 22, I did my best to fit in. I stood in line and ordered “ein bier,” “helles” (light), “radler” (with lemonade – girly in the U.S., but normal in Germany). The girl took my 5 euro and smiled at this goofy American trying so hard.
The band presently on stage was a Bavarian country band. The sound was thoroughly like American country music. But the words were all “auf Deutch.” Crazy. They even covered Johnny Cash’s “Folsom Prison.” It was fairly tame. Not wild and crazy college frat boys running shirtless across the lawn. Instead, thousands of students were mingling, conversing, and sipping their beer.
Robert and Bethany don’t organize big events for people to come to. First, people wouldn’t come anyway. Second, like the incarnation of Jesus they go where people are. Like Paul going to the Forum in Rome, or to Mars Hill in Athens, the Millars descend on the important places where people gather. There is no “church” to invite people to, just a city of 2 million to go to. There are no churchy programs to get people to come into. Just 80,000 German university students to go out to.
As I’m sipping my radler, a guy approaches me. “American?” he asks. Yes, is it that obvious? “I heard you talking,” he says, and he just starts chatting with me. His name is Bjorn. He’s 31. He actually teaches statistics at one of the universities. He’s looking for girls at this music festival, but laments that some of them are his students (I make sure he knows the beautiful woman standing next to me is my wife). And after a few minutes of conversation, he abruptly keeps moving into the crowd of people, bidding me farewell. And I think to myself, “He’s not that different than a 31 year-old male in the U.S.” Maybe Munich and St. Louis are closer than the 5,000 miles that separate us.
3:00AM Checkpoint
After a week with the Millars in Munich, we were fortunate to spend some time in Paris and Rome. We took a night train from Paris to Rome. After finally falling asleep on a bunk bed that was six feet long (I am 6’4”), we were awakened by an Italian guard. We had just crossed into Italy. “Do you have smokes?” “No,” I said groggily. I still wasn’t quite sure where we were. “Do you have anything illegal?” “No,” my wife responded. Noticing that my bride is pregnant, he focused his attention on the tall guy in the top bunk. He went through my back pack and found energy bars, dental floss, and a French language book. He was amused by my foam ear plugs. And then he found my Bible. Satisfied that I was not a criminal, he left us to attempt sleep again. I am grateful that unlike some places in the world, a Bible is not illegal in Italy.
Cardinal Logo and a King
Every St. Louis Cardinal baseball cap as the STL logo. Where did our city get the name “St. Louis”? From a king, of course. King Louis the ninth of France was the only monarch to be declared a saint by the church. He was faithful, benevolent, and led a couple of crusades in the 13th century. In Paris, he built Saint Chapelle to house a present he got from the pope – the crown of thorns from Jesus’ crucifixion (Relics were common birthday gifts for kings. What do you get a guy who has everything?). And in St. Louis, you can see the king riding his horse in Forest Park, guarding the front doors of the St. Louis Art Museum.
When in Rome . . . Visit Paul’s Friends
In Rome we stayed in the city at a place called My Guest Roma. We had a nice room on the first floor of an apartment building. We had our own bathroom and breakfast was provided. Thanks to good reviews on ricksteves.com, we found this place and its operator, Stefano Milano. Yes, that’s his name. And yes, it rhymes. When in Rome, visit Stefano. He wants to accommodate your every need.
The eight rooms of My Guest Roma have been Stefano’s venture for the past 18 months. He loves hosting people and showing off his city. At 42 years old, he works hard to provide for his wife and two daughters. Since it was around our anniversary, I asked him for a restaurant recommendation. Like a good Italian, he rattled off a list of establishments with great passion, and highly animated hand gestures. An hour later we were the only English-speaking clientele at Mezza Luna, eating some of the best Italian I have ever tasted.
Rome was the center of the Roman Empire and the center of the world. Bobbi and I walked through the famed Coliseum. We tromped on the palatial ruins of emperors like Caesar Augustus and Nero. We stood under the massive arch dedicated to Emperor Constantine. We hiked down a 2,000 year old stone street into the Forum, as Paul may well have done before us. For all its ruins, Rome is an active global city today. It still bustles with suicidal drivers, a diverse population, and cultural institutions. Its residents live and work among layers of ancient history, and yet they are creating their own.
Paul concludes his letter to the Roman Christians by greeting 25 individuals and a handful of families (chapter 16). There was Epaenetus, the first Christian convert in Asia. There was Andronicus and Junia who once shared a jail cell with Paul. He also notes that they were believers in Christ before he was. Asyncritus (say that 5 times fast). Phlegon (sounds like someone had congestion). Philologus (a great name for your next child). Hermes, Patrobas, and Hermas. All lived in the “eternal city” called Rome. And I don’t think they were all that different than her current residents, Stefano Milano included.
Paul’s most famous letter, written to his Roman friends, is all about God setting things right in Jesus (the righteousness of God, 1:16,17; 3:21). The Spirit of God drove Paul to the city of Rome in order to preach this gospel to real people with real names. God loves to set things right in the lives of individuals whose lives are all wrong. So he blankets the world with missionaries throughout lands and cities that are in desperate need. Cities like Rome, Corinth, and Ephesus. Like Munich, Paris, London, and Barcelona.
Some of the absolute-most-important pieces of Christian history happened in Europe. Today there is history, but only faint Christianity. So we pray to the God who sets things right in Jesus. Reform this land. Re-enter these cities. Re-engage these people. In the spirit of St. Paul, send missionaries on journeys throughout this significant continent.